Sailing in Croatia: 1 week in Central Dalmatia with catamaran
Stress-Free Arrival for Your Sailing Holiday with Wednesday-to-Wednesday Charter
This time, our cruise was once again a Wednesday-to-Wednesday charter, meaning we traveled mid-week – avoiding traffic jams at toll stations or construction sites – allowing us to quickly reach the Marina Jezera on MURTER. This wouldn't have been possible on the weekend. This way, we were able to set sail by 1:00 PM as we were the only boat checking in, since most crews start on Saturday.
Therefore, I recommend a Wednesday-to-Wednesday charter to anyone who can arrange it time-wise – it saves nerves, time, and gets you on the water faster.
View Wednesday-to-Wednesday OffersMy Croatia Cruise Report 2025
First of all, I always make a rough plan at home with alternative destinations in case the weather changes. For this, I use the Windy App, the Croatian Aladin Weather Forecast for wind and precipitation, and on-site, I also like to use the rain radar from WetterOnline.
Our Planned Sailing Route – Based on the Weather Forecast
Our initially intended route was as follows:
- First, motor north with a light Maestral to the southern tip of Iz, then sail to Sali on DUGI OTOK with the strengthening Maestral and wait out the bad weather in Levrnaka in the Kornati Islands.
- The next day, sail through the Kornati Islands with a weakening westerly wind and later take advantage of the incoming Bora to sail to ZIRJE, where we could safely anchor in the Bora-protected bay of Uv. Tratinska.
- Then, with the Bora weakening again, sail further south to the bay of Uv. Stupica, visit the Byzantine fortress on the hill, and then return to Jezera via Zlarin or Prvic.
However, the weather demanded flexibility, and we had to replan. Our actual cruise eventually took us through the following stops:
Our Sailing Cruise through Dalmatia: Actual Route, Experiences & Highlights
Wednesday, 23.07.2025
Setting sail – for a quick refreshment, we anchored just south of the marina in the bay of Uv. Guscica, between the small offshore island and the mainland. An ideal first (and last) swimming stop to cool off and settle into the holiday (about 1nm from Marina Jezera). We motored up the outside of MURTER with a light westerly wind and made another swimming stop between the two islands of Zminjak and Radelj northeast of Murter. Our day's destination was VRGADA with an anchor, as very calm weather was forecasted.
We wanted to take it easy, cooked on the ship, and didn't visit the red sandy beach or the charming little town – we've been here many times before but always enjoy coming back. We stocked up for cooking on board at the fish market in Vodice (by car upon arrival) – we're having Scampi Buzara, one of my favorite dishes on board.
Thursday, 24.07.2025
Late in the morning, we headed with a light easterly wind to the bay of Zincena on the southern west coast of Pašman. Here we swam and then waited for the forecasted wind shift from southwest to west to continue to our day's destination, the buoy field of Vodenjak at the southern tip of IZ.
There, we moored at the first buoy in the buoy field near the shoal – an ideal snorkeling spot. We paid 1 €/foot (40 €). We like this buoy field, it's a great place, well-maintained, and our buoy also had a shore line for secure and calm mooring. In the evening, we cooked on board again.
Friday, 25.07.2025
After extensive swimming, we set off very late on Friday and leisurely motored to KRKNATA (a small island off DUGI OTOK, at the level between Znam and Sali), where we made another swimming stop. With increasing westerly wind, we then continued late in the afternoon to the town harbor of Sali to replenish supplies and charge the batteries.
In Sali, we originally wanted to go to the pizzeria we knew from the last cruise – but then decided on the restaurant before it. The posted menu, especially the exquisite appetizers, attracted us irresistibly. We were not disappointed – the tuna tartare was a dream.
Even though I don't want to start a price discussion here, I would like to say the following: For me, the price-performance ratio was right. The dishes were of high quality and tasted excellent. If I go out to eat at this level at home, I pay a similar price or higher – so why should one expect less here, with this magnificent view and special atmosphere in Croatia?
Personally, I like to indulge a bit more on vacation – simply because I work a lot all year round and no one has time to cook at home during the week. On vacation, I consciously treat myself well.
We are all discerning guests and nowadays have so many options to inform ourselves in advance: Almost every restaurant has a website with a menu and prices, plus numerous reviews. On-site, I often take a little tour, look at the restaurants, glance at the posted menus, and sometimes even at the guests' plates. This is how I decide where I want to eat and what it's worth to me.
Of course, you sometimes get it wrong – it's happened to me too. Some places just won't see me again. But in recent years, I've mostly done very well with this approach. And if it doesn't work out once, I certainly won't let it spoil my vacation. With a bit of trust and a positive attitude, it's simply more relaxing to enjoy.
Saturday, 26.07.2025
Despite the forecasted weather deterioration with rain and wind from the west, we set off from Sali. We motored through the Mala Proversa into the Kornati Islands and used the increasing westerly wind to sail within the archipelago – between the small islands and the island of Kornat – towards Levrnaka, where we had reserved a berth for safety due to the weather. Since we were traveling with friends who appreciate good food, the meal at Konoba Levrnaka was to be our cruise highlight.
After arriving and a small sweet treat, we hiked over the small hill to the bay of Uv. Lojena, which has a dreamy white pebble beach with a sandy seabed – despite changeable weather with only small sunny windows, it had a Caribbean flair. The weather was pleasantly warm, but the heavy passage of the weather front was already announced by massive cloud cover from the west.
Gourmet Highlight at Konoba Levrnaka
Our culinary highlight of the cruise was experienced in the evening at Konoba Levrnaka – a stylish restaurant with excellent cuisine, which one does not expect in such a remote location. The dishes were visually perfectly presented and tastefully well-balanced.
In the afternoon, we treated ourselves to something sweet with coffee: tortellini with fig filling in sage foam, crème brûlée with pistachios and olive oil, and a fine chocolate mousse – perfect patisserie to enjoy, tastefully excellent, and elegantly presented.
In the evening, there was tenderly braised octopus from the oven and perfectly grilled tuna steaks, accompanied by suitably matched side dishes – all prepared at a high culinary level. The prices are upscale, but the berth is included – absolutely worthwhile for connoisseurs. Top quality served with noticeable attention to detail. Those traveling with children or less gourmet-oriented teenagers will surely find more suitable options elsewhere.
For a gourmet cruise, however: a clear recommendation! Personally, I always do it this way on my vacation: we go out to eat excellently 2-3 times or sometimes to a cheap pizzeria, but also cook ourselves several times, depending on the supply options, for a cozy evening on board.
Levrnaka – Enjoyment, Dream Beach, and a Wet Bed
Levrnaka was an experience in every way: a dreamy beach in the bay opposite, incredibly good food – and a wet bed. The explanation follows now.
While we enjoyed dinner, we forgot to close the windows. A sudden downpour poured over the catamaran, and the water collected on the deck eventually found its way through the small aft window under the steps directly into our beds.
But even that couldn't dampen our good mood. I ultimately slept in the forward float, my wife with our son in the bow cabin, and our traveling family organized themselves just as flexibly.
Sunday, 27.07.2025
A beautiful, sunny day that quickly dried our wet beds. It's good that we always have extra clothespins and large clips for hanging a sunshade on board – so we could secure everything outside, and by early afternoon, everything was dry again.
Sailing to Žirje – with a Swimming Stop and Thoughts on Waste Disposal
We sailed wonderfully through the Kornati Islands, with a refreshing swimming stop in between, continuing to Žirje, where we moored in the bay of Tratinska in the buoy field. The buoy cost 40 €, and we had to dispose of the waste ourselves – the containers for this were, according to the signage, about 8 minutes away, at the landing stage of Konoba Tratinska.
Since our self-appointed „waste disposer“ on board also had his two dachshunds with him for a walk, he couldn't bring the waste there – so we carried it with us for another day before we could dispose of it.
Even though we usually appreciate that waste disposal is included with the buoy fee, I see the solution with the bins on land as quite positive: Instead of a large, mixed waste bag – the typical large black bag – this offers the opportunity to better separate plastic and glass – which ultimately benefits the environment.
In the evening, we hiked to the bunker complex on the hill and experienced a beautiful sunset before ending a wonderful sailing day on board with self-cooked food.
Monday, 28.07.2025
As the thunderstorm front from the west took significantly longer to pass through, the onset of the Bora was also delayed. It didn't arrive as expected during our stay in the Bora-protected bay of Tratinska. Therefore, we had to adjust our route and skip the planned detour to the Byzantine fortress in the unprotected bay of Stupica. Instead, we headed to the protected bay of Landine on Pašman.
Once there, it was too cold for swimming, so we took a walk with the dogs and had a drink or two of Misch-Masch (red wine with Fanta – known from youth days) at Konoba Gajeta and checked the menu for the evening. The buoy costs of 3 €/m (40 €) we paid also applied with a restaurant visit, but our waste was disposed of for us. We were securely moored at the buoy while the Bora brought gusts of up to 30 knots of wind elsewhere – with the right route planning and a watchful eye on weather developments, bad weather can often be well avoided.
Tuesday, 28.07.2025
After heavy rain in the morning, we slept in extensively and started the day relaxed. Our day's destination was the bay of Vucigrada on Murter – the mooring costs here are included with a restaurant visit.
We enjoyed ourselves, the weather was warm and ideal for swimming. We walked the beautiful coastal path with the dogs to the next bay, treated ourselves to ice cream on the beach, and enjoyed a freshly prepared fish in the restaurant in the evening to conclude the cruise.
Wednesday, 29.08.2025
Our last day of the sailing holiday is here. We should have returned to the marina last night – but since the shipowner we know well only wants to arrive on Thursday noon, we were able to book an extension.
This option is very popular for weekly cruises – depending on availability – to spontaneously turn a week into a 10-day cruise. Especially 1 to 3 weeks before departure, we regularly receive corresponding inquiries.
We sail leisurely around Murter, enjoy extensive swimming stops – the last one again just before the marina entrance, just like at the beginning, and return to Jezera refreshed and happy.
Conclusion on My Sailing Holiday in Croatia
A wonderful sailing holiday comes to an end – full of special moments, beautiful bays, and relaxing days on the water.
Thank you for your interest – until the next cruise report!
Sincerely, Klaus Pitter
- A little tip to conclude: Particularly helpful for our route planning this year was the Bay Finder Croatia by Thomas Käsbohrer, published by millemari Verlag and also available in bookstores (there is also a digital version).
- Another recommendation: The Konoba Guide Gourmet Stars 4. A culinary journey through 25 locations in Croatia with many pictures, background knowledge about the places, and practical contact details – no price information or recommendations included.
